Kari Voutilainen is a 62-year-old watchmaker born in Finnish Lapland, working in his workshop in Môtiers, Switzerland, and an 11-time winner of the Geneva Grand Prix d’Horlogerie. He is the owner of the dial factory Comblémine SA, CEO of the historic Urban Jürgensen brand and founder of his own watch brand, Voutilainen, which is synonymous with craftsmanship.
Kari Voutilainen is recognised as one of the greatest master watchmakers of our time, but his name is also a brand, bigger than the man himself. Standing out among his peers, Voutilainen combines extraordinary craftsmanship with a strategic business vision, repeatedly demonstrating his ability to build and maintain a sustainable manufacturing business. Whether through collaborations or by integrating his own case and dial manufacturers, Kari consistently and successfully exemplifies the value of thinking long-term. His career path began in watch restoration, an experience that inevitably led him to create his own works.
The Story of Kari Voutilainen
Kari Voutilainen was not born into watchmaking. However, although neither of his parents were involved in the industry, he had a family friend who owned a small watch shop where he spent a significant part of his time. Sport and academic life initially created a conflict, often won by the sport itself. When it came time to decide his life path, he ended up enrolling at the Finnish School of Watchmaking, Kelloseppäkoulu, in Espoo. After graduating, he worked in a retail store, but soon realized that it was time to go back to school. This led him to enroll in a refresher course at WOSTEP in Switzerland in 1988. During this refresher course, he discovered the school’s complications course. To pay for it, he returned to Helsinki and set up as an independent restorer. He returned to WOSTEP a year later to attend the complications course, which had been attended by watchmakers such as Stephen Forsey and Stepan Sarpaneva. After completing this course, designed to familiarize students with the most complex calibres, Voutilainen was ready to join a large company and further deepen his understanding of watchmaking.
A New Chapter at Parmigiani and the First Watches
After encountering visa difficulties that prevented him from accepting a position at Vacheron Constantin , Kari Voutilainen joined Parmigiani , where he worked for nine years. In the 1990s, Parmigiani did not yet enjoy the recognition it enjoys today, but it was already standing out as one of the most respected restoration ateliers in Switzerland. It was there that Voutilainen met Charles Meylan , who would become his mentor. Under Meylan’s guidance, he acquired skills that, according to him, “you don’t learn in watchmaking school.” Furthermore, it was Meylan who encouraged him to take the decisive step of creating his first watch.
For three and a half years, on evenings and weekends, Voutilainen devoted himself to his first pocket watch, a one-minute tourbillon with two barrels and a power reserve, completed in 1994. Two years later, this piece was exhibited at the Musée de La Chaux-de-Fonds, in a tourbillon exhibition sponsored by Girard-Perregaux . It was there that Voutilainen's work began to attract the attention of collectors, who quickly approached him with orders.
One of the first commissions was a discreetly designed minute repeater, requested by a client who wanted something visually unobtrusive. To create this unique piece, Voutilainen used a vintage LeCoultre ébauche movement. The result was a watch with a yellow gold case, fluted bezel and white lacquered dial, with Breguet hands and numerals. The most innovative and interesting detail was the absence of an external slider for the repeater mechanism, which was integrated directly into the fluted bezel, making it both functional and aesthetically discreet.
In 1999, Voutilainen left Parmigiani and joined WOSTEP as a professor. Initially, the plan was to divide his time between teaching (50%) and personal projects, but, as he himself says, he ended up dedicating “150% of his time to teaching.” His students recall that if he didn’t know the answer to a problem, Voutilainen would stay up all night working on a solution and present it the next day. Many of those late-night hours were spent studying George Daniels’s book Watchmaking and experimenting on the bench until he found the right answer.
Although he enjoyed teaching and sharing his knowledge, it became clear that he could not remain at WOSTEP indefinitely. During his three years there, he continued to develop his skills and expand his workshop. He accumulated so many tools that he no longer had room in his house that he had to rent a workspace. It was there that he created the prototype movement for a watch that would later be exhibited at Baselworld, still under another brand name.
Motivation to Become Independent
Although his work for other brands was supposed to remain secret, his skill caught the attention of Philippe Dufour, who encouraged him to work under his own name. This push was the final push Voutilainen needed to establish himself as an independent watchmaker. In 2002, he founded his own watchmaking company.
Initially, the idea was to do everything himself, but he quickly realized that the quality he had in mind required a team. However, he took care to ensure that growth was moderate, avoiding the mistakes made by other independents who, by expanding too quickly, lost control of their brands.
In June 2021, Voutilainen moved his workshop to a historic building – a former hotel-restaurant called Chapeau de Napoléon , located on a hill overlooking the village of Môtiers in the Travers Valley. The building was converted to suit the needs of watchmaking, with two floors of spacious spaces and plenty of natural light, ideal for the meticulous work that takes place there.
What Makes Kari Voutilainen Special?
Kari Voutilainen is driven by a vision of quality and personalization, which has defined his watchmaking approach for more than two decades. He has always worked on a small scale, remaining true to his values, as he carries out all the processes of creating a watch himself.
A few years ago, he completed a complicated watch on his own, demonstrating his commitment to traditional watchmaking and direct contact with customers. Without relying on sales teams or PR managers, Voutilainen personally handles every aspect of his business, from customer service to shipping the finished watches. This personalized approach reflects his desire to create unique pieces that go beyond the boundaries of conventional watchmaking.
Although its production is limited, it offers almost unlimited configurations, adapting each watch to its customers’ wishes without restricting them to rigid catalogues. This flexibility results in unique creations, often colourful and unconventional, always in line with its design philosophy. When necessary, it enlists the help of specialist craftsmen, such as engravers and enamellers, to enhance its pieces.
One example of this collaboration is the Kaen watch, created in partnership with Japanese lacquer studio Unryuan. This piece stands out for its combination of traditional Japanese lacquering techniques with contemporary design, illustrating Voutilainen’s ability to integrate traditional arts from different cultures into his watchmaking. His work continues to represent the perfect balance between tradition, innovation and personalization, ensuring the creation of truly unique and timeless timepieces.
Collaborations and Transparency
While many brands commission specialist work without disclosing the names of the artisans involved, Voutilainen values collaboration and transparency. He openly mentions the names of his partners, such as master engraver Eddy Jaquet , who is responsible for several day and night indications and casebacks, or artisan Cédric Vichard , who creates exquisite cases for his watches. This approach reflects his philosophy of valuing collaborative work, something he himself has experienced when developing movements for other brands.
Voutilainen also works directly with other brands, providing intricate dials and custom movements. His clients include both independents and more established brands, including MB&F, for whom he has developed movements.
Building a Sustainable Brand
Unlike many independents, Voutilainen focuses on building a brand and team that can outlast him. This long-term vision is evidenced by strategic decisions such as integrating his dial and case manufacturers into his manufacturing business. This approach reduces dependence on external suppliers and strengthens the sustainability of his business. Since 2014, when he acquired a dial factory, he has kept the operation diversified, also supplying other brands such as Grönefeld, Schwarz Etienne and Armin Strom.
“The strength of the company lies in its people,” says Voutilainen. The team currently has around 30 members, with plans to expand. This philosophy ensures that the brand’s legacy will live on even after its retirement.
Distinguishing Features of Voutilainen Watches
Aesthetics of Dials
One of the most notable features of Voutilainen’s watches is the unique dials, produced at his factory in Comblémine. He often uses the traditional guilloché technique, engraving intricate, repetitive patterns into the base material. However, Voutilainen has modernized this technique, introducing new patterns, vibrant colors and materials such as enamel and onyx. Galvanic plating allows him to create a wide range of colors, from pure white to intense red. Each pattern is carefully documented and replicable, ensuring continuity in design.
Teardrop Shaped Box and Handles
Another distinctive element is the teardrop-shaped lug design, inspired by a 1950s Movado watch from Voutilainen’s personal collection. These lugs preserve their shine and integrity even after multiple polishings, ensuring the durability of the design.
Observatory Pointers
The hands of the Observatoire models are made up of three parts: the shaft, the circular loop and the arrow-shaped tip. This complex design is often executed in gold with blued steel details and is one of the most elaborate in watchmaking.
Innovative Movements and Modularity
Voutilainen’s movements are distinguished by their unique architecture and exceptional finishes. He uses a modular approach to developing complications, based on his flagship Calibre 28 movement. This methodology allows him to create different complications without the need for new movements for each model. Calibre 28 combines traditional influences, such as the large oversized balance bridge inspired by vintage pocket watches, with modern innovations such as the Grossmann double-wheel escapement with internal curve and the Breguet hairspring. This design offers greater energy efficiency and increases the longevity of the movement.
Reusing Vintage Movements
Voutilainen also integrates new-old-stock vintage movements into his models. A notable example is the Chronomètre 27, which uses restored and modified Longines 360 movements. This approach reflects his strong connection to the art of restoration and respect for historic calibres.
Notable Models and Creations by Kari Voutilainen
Observatory
First produced in 2007, the Observatoire was born from a suggestion from a collector client, who presented Voutilainen with a case containing antique Peseux movements and suggested that he use them as the basis for a watch. Initially conceived as a one-off piece, the project evolved into a limited series.
The Peseux movements were base movements certified in observatory tests, originally intended for precision competitions at the Geneva and Neuchâtel Observatories. Few of these calibres survive, making the project all the more special. Voutilainen disassembled, cleaned and modified each movement, and added his own escapement, with a Breguet hairspring and Grossmann-style internal curve, before finishing them to his usual high standard.
Model Features:
Highly customized dials with guilloché techniques and unique finishes.
Teardrop-shaped wings, a characteristic design element.
Production limited to around 50 units, all different in details and customizations.
Observatoire received international acclaim and earned Voutilainen his first prize at the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) in 2007.
Model Evolution:
Early versions of the Observatoire feature a more utilitarian design, with straight lugs and sword-like hands. As Voutilainen's style evolved, the designs became more elaborate, with refined details and a more distinctive aesthetic.
Chronographs – Masterpiece Series
Voutilainen’s debut as an independent watchmaker came with the Masterpiece series of chronographs. First introduced in 2004, they were powered by his first fully in-house movement, inspired by the traditional geometry of the iconic Valjoux 23 and Patek Philippe variants.
Series I:
Asymmetrical dial, with the time display relegated to a subdial at 6 o'clock, highlighting the focus on the chronograph function.
Limited production of 11 pieces, with guilloche finishes and classic design.
Series II:
Launched in 2010, the second series introduced additional complications, such as a large date and moon phases. It involved a group of collectors from Northern California who actively participated in the design of their pieces. Ten examples were produced, as well as editions in white gold, rose gold, platinum and stainless steel.
Minute Repeater
One of Voutilainen’s most impressive watches is the Minute Repeater, completed in 1996, before his brand was even founded. A client asked him to create an understated minute repeater with a vintage LeCoultre ébauche movement.
Design and Innovation:
The fluted bezel serves as a slide button to activate the repeat function, an innovative solution that maintains the clean, minimalist aesthetic.
Restored and optimized movement for maximum performance.
The latest pieces feature additional complications such as GMT functions, perpetual calendars and skeletonized versions.
Tourbillon
Voutilainen completed his first tourbillon in 1994, a pocket-sized piece with double barrels and a power reserve. Since then, he has created tourbillons in a variety of shapes, many of them as one-off commissions for clients.
A notable example is the tourbillon with pivoting détente escapement, inspired by marine chronometers. This rare and technically challenging complication has been integrated into a wristwatch, highlighting Voutilainen’s skill in miniaturizing traditional complications.
Tourbillon-6:
Launched in 2014, this was the brand’s first mass-production tourbillon. With a double-wheel direct-impulse escapement, the design combines aesthetics and precision. Only six examples were produced.
Vingt-8
The Vingt-8 is considered the cornerstone of Voutilainen’s portfolio. Launched in 2011, it is powered by the in-house developed Caliber 28, which features the brand’s signature double wheel escapement.
Outstanding Features:
Modular movement that allows the addition of complications such as retrograde dates and power reserves.
Experimental dials with a wide range of color combinations, numbering styles and materials such as enamel and guilloché.
Classic teardrop-shaped lug design and Observatoire hands.
A unique example was the Vingt-8 prototype (number 000), with a platinum case and salmon-coloured dial, certified by the Besançon Observatory. This certificate is issued after rigorous chronometric tests, with tolerances much tighter than those of conventional Swiss chronometers.
Final Reflections
Kari Voutilainen is a multifaceted master: watchmaker, entrepreneur, designer and visionary. His creations combine tradition and innovation, maintaining a clear philosophy of quality, personalization and sustainability.
Whether through unique watches such as the Observatoire and Minute Repeater, or iconic models such as the Vingt-8, Voutilainen has built a brand that reflects his commitment to craftsmanship and technical innovation.
As he himself admits, “I don’t work for money, but for quality.” This focus on his core values has ensured the sustained growth of his brand and the creation of a legacy that will certainly last well beyond his active career.
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