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Roda - Kari Voutilainen and the art of guilloche

Writer's picture: Nuno MargalhaNuno Margalha

In the world of watchmaking, a brand is said to be independent when, despite not producing in mass quantities, it manages to be independent in the production of some parts of its watches. Some brands are more independent than others. Normally, the most independent ones, those that produce practically 100% of the watch, produce one watch per year, or over several years. Others give up some independence and produce more watches. There is therefore a relationship between the level of independence and the number of watches produced.




What makes Voutilainen watches so special is that they can produce 50 to 60 watches per year and, in the entire watch-making process, only a few parts of the movement are left out. To make this ratio between the number of watches and a high level of independence possible, Karil Voutilainen acquired a number of factories and workshops, which allows him to make his own watch cases, dials, all finishes including guilloché and, of course, parts of the movement. With this ecosystem, it has become possible to meet delivery deadlines, control production, and greatly increase the efficiency of the research and development department.


In fact, when someone becomes independent, it means that they have separated themselves from other people, and therefore become more alone.

Independent watch brands have separated themselves from suppliers who fail to meet deadlines, or who do not have at least the same work pace, or who have different perspectives on the quality of work.

Brands are independent when they control what happens to their watches from the metal to the wrist.


We choose brands over generic watches because it saves us time. Choosing a brand means trusting the values and principles associated with it. We know that brands are known for different characteristics, quality, sporty style, complications... This way we don't have to evaluate ourselves what we don't know how to evaluate. Choosing a brand means trusting. However, sometimes brands themselves trust the brands of suppliers, who themselves trust the brands of other suppliers. The chain is sometimes too long to be able to guarantee that the values and principles are respected. Perhaps this is the reason why independent brands have gained so much ground in recent years.


In the 50s, 60s and 70s, Swiss watchmaking had no independent brands.

It could be considered that all Swiss watchmaking was a large independent brand.

There was a group of companies that manufactured the different components of the watch in their own country. All of them were united around entities such as the Swiss Watch Industry, which ensured that all watchmakers in the world received the necessary training to repair Swiss watches. With globalization, this style of operation became impossible, and large groups of agglomerated brands emerged, as well as, in contrast, independent brands.


In Portugal, we can follow either of these two paths: we can unite companies working in the watchmaking sector or encourage the creation of independent brands. Watch production in Portugal is possible, but it does not necessarily have to depend 100% on Portuguese companies, which would not be possible at the moment anyway. In any case, it is time to get rid of the Old Men of Restelo and get to work.

IPR supports anyone who decides to build their own brand or anyone who needs watchmaking services.

If it is not possible to provide them directly, we can recommend the necessary suppliers, just contact us. But you can start by attending the watchmaking conference with Kari Voutilainen that takes place today at 4 pm, at the Medeiros e Almeida Museum.

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