The 18th Century, the Century of the Great Watchmakers (Part 2)
By: Sílvio Pereira
T'Moore - London No. 4550 | 1750 | Enamel Dial | Pair Case | Brass
Brass plates, fusée movement, verge escapement with Graham regulator, richly chased cock and foot. Enamel dial. Square pillars
In this 2nd part of the history of 18th-century watchmaking, we continue to describe in detail the technical developments that took place in this century, as well as the most influential watchmakers who worked during it.
The name of Thomas Mudge should always appear among the greatest exponents of watchmaking, not only for what his mastery added to the development of this art, but also because he invented the lever escapement which, even today, almost 300 years after its invention, equips a large proportion of timepieces, whether wristwatches, pocket watches, or table, wall or floor clocks.
This and other 18th-century watchmakers feature in the article we now present, and we hope you enjoy it.
Happy reading!
18th Century (second part)
Successors of George Graham
Thomas Colley, one of Graham's employees, was chosen by him as his successor after his death in 1751. Colley took on Simon Barkley, who had likewise been employed by Graham, as his partner. However, after Barkley's death in 1753, John Priest, another long-standing employee of Graham, took Barkley's place alongside Colley.
It is presumed that Justin Vulliamy visited Graham's workshop to learn more about the cylinder escapement. Meanwhile, Larcum Kendall, who in turn worked for Graham for several years making cylinder escapements, very probably went on to work with Thomas Mudge. Mudge, who had been Graham's apprentice, set up on his own in 1748 and, in 1755, invited William Dutton, also Graham's apprentice, to become his partner.
Although Mudge embodied Graham's quality and creativity, incomprehensibly he was not chosen as his successor. Nevertheless, paradoxical as it may seem, Mudge and Graham shared a calm and humble character and were both profound connoisseurs of every intricacy of watchmaking.
All the former workers and employees of George Graham's workshop, including Larcum Kendall, adopted the same movement layouts and manufacturing traditions when they started their own businesses.
All the cylinder-escapement watches produced by these watchmakers had brass cylinder escapements, and most kept the 13 teeth on the escape wheel and the same inclination of the cylinder pin[1].
In addition, they also used enamel dials, many of them on gold, especially Mudge's pieces. All the watches they produced had cocks with solid engraved feet and solid side plates, likewise engraved. The centres of the cocks were adorned with large precious stones, usually diamonds, held by a round blued or, in other cases, polished steel disc fixed by two screws.
Likewise, all the gilt-brass dust covers were signed in the same style, and most of them bore the movement number engraved in different places, such as on the back of the cock or on the top plate.
Many of these traditions were maintained by Graham's successors, including Mudge & Duttons, until the early 1800s. For example, some movements made by Matthew Dutton, son of William Dutton, still followed these practices.
Thomas Colley, London, No. 6648, 1755
This is a watch with a gilt-brass dust cover. Its movement is based on the cylinder escapement, with plates 40mm in diameter, and it features a cock with an unpierced foot. The watch case has a centred symmetrical engraving, adorned with a diamond endstone.
Inside the cover, the movement number can be found engraved, which is a typical custom of the Graham workshop. The watch has a cylinder escapement of the dead-beat[2]
type, retaining the original Graham inclination, with a 13-tooth brass escape wheel. It also has a steel balance and a 3-turn blued-steel balance spring.
The back plate is engraved “Grahams Succ. (esso)r London 6648”, while the dust cover bears the engraving “Graham's Succ. Tho. Colley London”. The movement was later “enlarged” with wider brass plates and a custom-made white enamel dial.
It is important to point out that this movement is one of the first pieces made after George Graham's death, since the last piece signed by him is No. 6590. Later movements were signed as “Graham's Successors”.
In total, there are only about ten known movements signed by Colley alone or in partnership with Samuel Barkley or, later, with John Priest.
John Priest, London, No. 222, 1760
A gilt-brass watch, an exquisite piece featuring a full-plate fusée movement (35.5 mm in diameter). Its round baluster pillars give it an elegant and sophisticated look. One of the highlights is the finely engraved foot and cock, adding an artistic and detailed touch to the design.
In the centre of the cock there is a dazzling diamond, which catches the light with a sparkle, adding an element of luxury and exclusivity to this piece. The back plate bears the signature “John Priest London 222”, indicating the origin and authenticity of the movement.
It is interesting to note that this watch is one of the few known examples made by this important watchmaker.
Thomas Mudge (9.1717 – 14.11.1794)
Thomas Mudge was the second son of Zachariah Mudge and Mary Fox, born in Exeter. When he was about 14 or 15, he was sent to London to be apprenticed to George Graham, an important watchmaker who had been a pupil of Thomas Tompion. Graham's workshop was located in Water Lane, Fleet Street. After qualifying as a watchmaker in 1738, Mudge began to be engaged by important London merchants.
While working on an extremely complicated equation watch commissioned by the eminent John Ellicott, Mudge came to be regarded as a watchmaker of enormous potential. As a result, he was engaged directly to supply watches to King Ferdinand VI of Spain. Mudge is known to have produced at least five watches for King Ferdinand, including one that repeated the minutes, quarters and hours.
In 1748, Mudge set up at 151 Fleet Street, and began advertising vacancies after the death of his former master, George Graham, in 1751. Although he was not Graham's direct successor, it was Mudge who perfected the principles and techniques developed by his mentor. His exceptional work quickly earned him a remarkable reputation as one of the most prominent English watchmakers of the time.
In 1753, Thomas Mudge married Abigail Hopkins of Oxford, with whom he had two children. It is highly likely that William Dutton, another of Graham's apprentices, worked for Mudge from the time the latter opened his workshop. Around 1765, Mudge took William Dutton as his partner, and from then on all subsequent work was carried out under the name “Mudge & Dutton”. While Mudge supervised the production of watches, William Dutton took over the management of the business.
Around 1755, or perhaps even earlier, Mudge invented the lever escapement, applying it for the first time in a timepiece. This escapement can be considered the greatest single innovation ever made in watchmaking since the invention of the balance spring. Today, it remains a feature of almost all pocket and wrist chronometers.
Count Hans Moritz von Brühl (20/12/1736 – 09/06/1809)
In 1760, Mudge was introduced to Count Hans Moritz von Brühl (20/12/1736 – 09/06/1809), envoy extraordinary of the Saxon court, who from then on became a constant patron.
In 1765, Mudge was invited by the Board of Longitude as an expert to help examine Harrison's H4. A dispute arose with the Board, because Mudge spoke openly about the details of the construction of H4 to the French watchmaker Ferdinand Berthoud, who wanted to use the information about that construction in his own work on marine chronometers.
Mudge, like George Graham before him, was an honest, humble and selfless person who never wanted to patent his inventions. He considered the copying of his works an honour. It is in this context that the disclosure of the details of H4's construction to Berthoud should be understood, with the aim of encouraging the development of the best possible chronometer.
In 1765, Mudge published the book “Thoughts on the Means of Improving Watches, and More Particularly Those for the Use of the Sea”. It is known that Larcum Kendall worked for Mudge for many years. Most of the watches with superlative finishing may have been made by him.
In 1771, owing to ill health, Mudge withdrew from active business and left London to live in Plymouth with his brother, Dr John Mudge. From then on, Mudge worked on developing a marine chronometer that would meet the new, stringent requirements of the Board of Longitude, which had been changed in 1765 following John Harrison's earlier work. He sent the first of them (see below) for evaluation in 1774 and received 500 guineas for his design.
Mudge completed two more between 1776 and 1779 (“Green”: 1777, “Blue”: 1776–1779), in a continued attempt to satisfy the increasingly difficult requirements set by the Board of Longitude. They were tested by the Astronomer Royal, Nevil Maskelyne, and declared unsatisfactory. A controversy followed in which it was alleged that Maskelyne's judgement had not been fair. A similar controversy had arisen when John Harrison was denied the full amount of the 1714 prize by the Board of Longitude.
Eventually, in 1792, two years before his death, Mudge received 2,500 pounds from a Committee of the House of Commons, which decided in Mudge's favour and against the Board of Longitude, then headed by Sir Joseph Banks.
Left: Thomas Mudge, 'Green', 1777, Maritime Museum, Greenwich. Right: Thomas Mudge, 'Blue', 1776 – 1779, 12.25 cm in diameter: Staatliche Kunstsammlungen Dresden.
In 1770, George III bought a large gold watch made by Mudge, which incorporated the lever escapement. He gave it as a present to his wife, Queen Charlotte.
This watch still remains in the Royal Collection at Windsor Castle.
In 1776, Mudge was appointed watchmaker to the King.
Thomas Mudge, 1770: watch with lever escapement. Photo taken and modified: timezone.com, Royal Collection of HM Queen Elizabeth II.
The importance of Thomas Mudge in the development of watchmaking is greatly underestimated, and his significance for the progress of watchmaking was overshadowed, mainly by the success and publicity of John Harrison. Even so, it is generally agreed that no other watchmaker of the time achieved the manufacturing quality of the firm Mudge & Dutton.
Thomas Mudge, Plymouth, No. 1, 1774
Thomas Mudge, 1774, marine chronometer No. 1, British Museum (1958,1006.2119). Photos taken and modified: British Museum, London
Thomas Mudge, marine chronometer, No. 1, 1774, 13.25 cm in diameter; spring-driven; eight-day movement; powered by two separate mainsprings housed in a single barrel; Mudge's lever escapement; temperature compensation achieved by the use of a bimetallic balance; separate enamel dials: minutes dial and degree equivalents on the left, hours and degrees on the right, seconds below; the difference between local time (established by observation) and Greenwich time (shown by the chronometer) gives the longitude; octagonal mahogany case with glazed top, bottom and sides; outer octagonal mahogany case. Photo taken and modified: British Museum (1958,1006.2119), London.
This chronometer was sent to Greenwich for assessment, where it was largely neglected and poorly evaluated. The balance spring broke twice and there were reports that it had been dropped, so it was excluded from the competition for the Longitude prize, even though it had been considered the most accurate of all the candidates.
Mudge spent all his savings on research into marine chronometers and probably also damaged his own health. He could not even afford a metal case to protect his chronometer, which is now kept in a fine varnished mahogany case.
It should be emphasised that this marine chronometer made in 1774 by Thomas Mudge remained the most accurate until 1887.
Thomas Mudge, London, No. 494, 1765
This magnificent watch is a true masterpiece in gilt brass, designed with a full-plate fusée movement (47 mm in diameter), which shows the meticulous attention to detail and the craftsmanship involved in its creation.
The pillars that support it are carved in a square shape, in an elegant baluster form, giving it a refined and imposing appearance. The cock and its foot are finely engraved, adding a touch of sophistication to the design.
A notable feature is the diamond set in the centre of the cock, which crowns the watch, giving it extreme beauty and an incomparable touch of luxury. The back plate is signed “Thomas Mudge London 494”, indicating its origin, quality and authenticity. This detail adds history and tradition, linking it to the talented craftsmen watchmakers of London of that era.
As for the mechanism, it has a Graham-type cylinder escapement with original inclination, showing a refined technical choice aimed at optimising performance and precision. In addition, a 13-tooth brass escape wheel was used, which also contributes to smooth and precise running.
The dust cover, like the rest of the watch body, is in gilt brass and likewise signed “Thomas Mudge London 494”, following the common practice of Graham's workshop. This detail adds authenticity and is a tribute to the tradition and legacy of the famous watchmaker.
Altogether, this watch is a piece of horological art that combines beauty with technical excellence.
Thomas Mudge later established himself in London in a partnership with William Dutton, consolidating his reputation as a watchmaker of excellence. Although the firm continued to attract the best watch finishers in the city, it is rare to find pieces bearing Mudge's name alone.
A notable example of this productive period was the development of a movement in the 1760s, which received recognition thanks to the impressive earlier work done for John Ellicott. Also in this period he had the honour of counting the King of Spain among his clients.
That same year, Mudge was appointed an expert to the Board of Longitude, underlining his knowledge and talent in the field.
However, the intense workload began to affect his health, leading him to retire and seek refuge with his brother, an eminent physician, in 1770/71.
After retiring, Mudge produced the most beautiful, surprising and accurate marine chronometer.
William Dutton (1738-1794)
William Dutton, son of Matthew Dutton of Marston in Buckinghamshire, was apprenticed to George Graham from 5 January 1738 and completed his training on 7 July 1746.
He began working as an official of the Clockmakers Company in 1766, where he remained until 1794.
It is presumed that Dutton began working for Thomas Mudge when the latter first opened his workshop in 1748. It is estimated that they formed a partnership around 1765, with Dutton taking responsibility for the production of watches.
In 1771, when Mudge retired owing to illness, Dutton took over the entire business.
For some time, the firm kept the same name, but at the end of the 1780s Dutton began signing work as “William Dutton” or “W. Dutton”.
For a short period, he ran the firm together with his two sons, Matthew and Thomas, and the works began to be signed “W. Dutton & Sons”.
Thomas Mudge & William Dutton, London, No. 1392, 1790
This is an elegant, skilfully crafted gilt-brass watch. It has an exceptional full-plate fusée movement (46.5 mm in diameter), a testament to high-quality craftsmanship. The square, ornate baluster pillars add classic refinement, while the finely engraved cock shows singular artistic care. As a touch of brilliance and luxury, the centre of the cock is adorned with a dazzling diamond.
The back plate bears the prestigious signature “Thomas Mudge William Dutton London 1392”. This mark is a guarantee of horological tradition and exceptional skill. Inside the movement we find a Graham-type cylinder escapement with original inclination, which ensures remarkable performance. In addition, the 13-tooth brass escape wheel is a testament to the meticulous care taken in creating this watch.
The dial, a true masterpiece in enamelled gold, stands out for its original and unique style, known as “late beetle”[3].
The nuances and subtle details of the enamel give the dial incomparable beauty, while the poker-shaped hands add a touch of playful sophistication.
The dust cover, also in gilt brass, proudly displays the signature “Thomas Mudge William Dutton London”, engraved with the number 1392, following the tradition of Graham's workshop. It is interesting to note that, from No. 1448 onwards, the movements were signed William Dutton & Sons, marking a transition in the production of these iconic pieces. A curious fact worth highlighting is that, when this movement was made, Mudge was suffering from ill health and had already left his London premises to join his brother. This watch therefore represents one of the last works signed by the master Thomas Mudge.
This is a piece that embodies the legacy of classic fine watchmaking and will attract the most demanding connoisseurs.
William Dutton, London, No. 1363, 1790
This magnificent gilt-brass watch features a full-plate fusée movement (42 mm in diameter), demonstrating the craftsmanship involved in its making. The square baluster pillars give it classic elegance, with the finely engraved cock adding a touch of refinement. The stone in the centre, a brilliant diamond, crowns the whole with a touch of luxury and distinction.
The back plate bears the signature “William Dutton London 1363”, a testament to its origin and quality. The movement has a lever escapement with an enlarged brass wheel, combining functionality and beauty in an exceptional way. Setting it apart from other pieces, this movement is notable for bearing Dutton's signature alone, revealing its uniqueness in the watchmaking world.
The dial, made of enamelled copper, displays a charming cream tone, applied later to enhance its beauty. With attention to detail, every marking on the dial was meticulously executed, reflecting the sophistication present in every element of this admirable example.
This is truly a work of art, combining technique, design and exclusivity. The structure of the movement is a guarantee of the skill and talent of the masters Mudge and Dutton. Moreover, the parts of the mechanism show a unique numbering, departing from the pattern traditionally associated with cylinder escapements.
(François) Justin Vulliamy 1712 – 1797
Justin Vulliamy, born in Switzerland, travelled to London around 1730, eager to improve his skills as a watchmaker. In the English capital he had the honour of becoming apprenticed to Benjamin Gray, a notable master watchmaker who enjoyed great prestige at the time.
Gray, whose talent was widely recognised, was granted the title of watchmaker to King George II in 1742, which attests to his admirable skill and reputation.
It is possible that during this period Vulliamy had the opportunity to make contact with George Graham's workshop, with the aim of deepening his understanding of the cylinder escapement. This collaboration with Graham broadened Vulliamy's experience and expertise in the field of watchmaking, enriching his technical knowledge.
Around 1743, Justin Vulliamy married Mary, daughter of Benjamin Gray, and together they formed a partnership, signing their work with both names. This union, both personal and professional, culminated in the creation of their own workshop at No. 68 Pall Mall, London, where they perpetuated the legacy of the Gray family, maintaining tradition and raising the art of watchmaking to new heights.
Vulliamy and Gray were pioneers in London in adopting the cylinder escapement developed by George Graham, showing a commitment to employing the most advanced and innovative techniques in watchmaking practice.
After Benjamin Gray's death in 1764, Justin Vulliamy took full responsibility for the business and began signing works solely with his own name, “Justin Vulliamy”, marking independence and leadership in the continuity of this notable workshop. Later, one of Justin Vulliamy's sons, Benjamin Vulliamy, took over the management of the family business, ensuring the continuation of the tradition and excellence of Vulliamy timepieces.
The Gray/Vulliamy letter code:
From the outset, Benjamin Gray introduced a specific letter code to number the movements while working on his own account.
Generally, letter codes can easily be converted into a numerical sequence using a logical key. However, the Gray/Vulliamy letter code is exceptionally complex and so far only a small part of it has been deciphered.
Initially they used a three-letter code, but around 1812 they switched to a four-letter code, making it even more enigmatic. In addition, Benjamin showed his talent for wordplay by using alternative signatures on his work during production.
Two of these signatures were “Fras Risdon”, a combination of Fra (nçoi)s, which was the Swiss family name of Benjamin's father, and “Risdon”, which was the maiden name of Benjamin Gray's wife, Maria Risdon. The other alternative signature is “J Gray”, which obviously combines the first name of Benjamin's father, “Justin”, and the surname of his grandfather “Gray”.
The use of these signatures shows the deep commitment and pride Benjamin felt towards the origins of the Vulliamy watchmaking dynasty. It is likely that, to decipher the letter code, these names will need to be taken into account.
In addition to the letter code, Benjamin and his team also used numerical codes, which did not necessarily follow a logical sequence. These numerical codes were often used on lower-quality work.
Benjamin Gray & Justin Vulliamy, London, Code: ois, c.1745
This magnificent gilt-brass watch (36mm in diameter) features a cylinder movement, with an escape wheel also in brass and of the Graham type.
The pillars are square balusters, adding an elegant touch to the design. The balance wheel is in steel and has a spiral balance spring, ensuring precision and good running.
The original dial is gold with “Venetian” enamel, a type of enamel that requires high temperatures during firing compared with conventional enamel (used by George Graham). This choice of material shows the attention to detail and exceptional quality of this watch. Other materials used for dials would not have been strong enough to withstand the high temperatures needed to make Venetian enamel.
The Roman and Arabic numerals are painted in black and have dots within the minute track, features typical of Gray/Vulliamy production.
This movement is believed to be one of the earliest known, made by the accredited Gray/Vulliamy partners.
Benjamin Gray & Justin Vulliamy, London, Code: nco, c.1750
Watch with gilt-brass cylinder movement (41x35mm), 13-tooth brass escape wheel and Graham-type regulator. In addition, it has egg-shaped plates and baluster pillars.
Off-centre seconds at 6 o'clock on an independent subdial. Unfortunately, some important parts are missing, such as the cock, the regulator, the side plate, the dial plate, the fusée, the chain, the balance and the balance spring.
Photo taken and later modified: Sotheby's, Masterpieces from the Time Museum Part 2, NY, 19.06.2002, lot 18
Only about four egg-shaped watches are known. Two of them are kept at the British Museum, London, and the Time Museum, Rockford, Illinois (the latter last sold at “Masterpieces from the Time Museum”, Sotheby's New York, June 2002, for $45,000).
Benjamin Gray began making these irregularly shaped watches before partnering with Justin Vulliamy in 1743. The earliest version of this type of watch is not exactly egg-shaped but resembles a shield. Both the shield shape and the egg shape give the watch an elegant look, with a large seconds dial at 6 o'clock characteristic of either, which catches the eye and suggests great precision. Making the shield- or egg-shaped plates was a manual process, which made it quite laborious and challenging.
Notes:
[1] This means that these particular watches were made with a cylinder whose escape wheel had 13 teeth, which are used to drive this wheel. The pin inclination of the cylinder refers to the way the cylinder is inclined relative to the escape wheel to ensure proper engagement of the teeth and proper transfer of energy to regulate the rate of the watch.
[2] Also known as a “retaining cylinder escapement”, this is an escapement that allows the watch to advance in precise “jumps” of time
[3] Refers to an escapement mechanism with a movement similar to that of a slowly moving beetle
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