The Birth of a Brand: Followay
Fallaway is a dance step typical of the Slow Fox, or Foxtrot, the field in which the inspiration was found, the name later being adapted to Followay. The link between a dance step and the style of a watch is rather far-fetched, but it tells us a great deal about the freedom that a truly creative spirit requires. The creative spirit in question is that of João Dias, and the blame can be laid on his aunt, who gave him a watch when he was 12. The impact was so strong that from then on he set out on a path of no return, with watchmaking on the horizon.
Now 21 and having started university, João began to consider his next step. Creating a watch brand seemed to him an inevitable outcome, and even one compatible with his studies. This process of discovery and study in the world of watches began shortly before the start of the pandemic. His lockdown was one of those that brought more free time and, as a consequence, greater dedication. João developed three-dimensional models of mechanical watches and movements, using software such as Solidworks. All this research has now culminated in the creation of the F M0 Stadium, his design for a watch with a movement of its own.
F M0 Stadium
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
1-minute tourbillon with silicon bridges;
Crown at the top of the watch;
Double hairspring;
Swiss lever escapement;
Hand-wound;
Frequency: 21,600 vph;
Dial: Guilloché and the pattern known as Rigato (a pattern, usually engraved in gold, intended to depict silk);
Power reserve: 3 days
A THEORETICAL PROPOSAL FOR IMPROVING THE TOURBILLON
SILICON BRIDGES
João says that the aim of this model was clear: to make the most accurate mechanical movement possible, with a tourbillon.
To that end he took inspiration from the pioneering work of authors such as Ruxu Du, co-author of the book “The Mechanics of Mechanical Watches and Clocks” (2013).
The choice of silicon bridges in the tourbillon serves to eliminate the effects caused by the fact that the tourbillon's centre of mass lies on its axis of rotation. The solution found with these silicon bridges results in a tourbillon that is much lighter than usual, which helps to improve the accuracy of the watch.
DOUBLE HAIRSPRING
According to João Dias, the double hairspring serves to reduce the effects caused by the shift in the centre of mass that occurs as the hairspring contracts and expands. The gain in accuracy with this solution was calculated at around 10%. Who knows whether this model will one day be made real?
TRANSITION TO THE PHYSICAL WORLD
After the creation of the F M0 Stadium, it was time to move into the physical world, leading to the creation of the F M1 Groundbreaking. To that end, a manual milling machine was acquired. This tool made it possible to create the first prototype. The watch case presented countless challenges and is expected to include countless innovations.
It was even necessary to build a tool from scratch: a half-circle milling cutter, which can be seen in the following image.
After 7 manufacturing attempts, it was finally possible to make the watch case.
AN EXISTENTIAL CRISIS TO SET THE COURSE
While the case and the remaining components were being made, João went through a period of reflection in which he asked himself what the true purpose of watches is. After this pause for reflection, he established for himself that the purposes of watches, which may encompass luxury and art, are the following:
the need for status;
narcissistic satisfaction;
the search for self-affirmation;
investment
Aware of the subjectivity of his conclusions, he decided for himself that these are good purposes. On the other hand, he became more alert to some of the nobler benefits of the development of the watch industry. Whenever a new technique, a new material or a new design is created in watchmaking, there is naturally a clear contribution to the watch industry, but also to other industries in which those creations are applied.
Over the course of a month, the F M1 Groundbreaking prototype was manufactured and assembled. It has the following characteristics:
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Automatic movement, NH-35;
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds and date;
Power reserve: 41 hours;
Frequency: 21,600 vph
Case material: aluminium
Strap: leather
Dimensions: 47 x 40 x 12 mm
Production of this model in a series of 200 pieces is coming soon; the flaws in the prototype need to be corrected, and a strap specific to the model needs to be made. A crown will also have to be made from scratch, since the one shown on the prototype works as a “cap” and sits over an ordinary crown.
More information and news about the model and about Followay can be found at:
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