Once or twice a year we conduct a search to identify published scientific articles on the subject of watchmaking. Invariably we come across real gems. This time we present a study on the feasibility of a watchmaking course in Finland ; an analysis of Rebecca Struthers' book , published in 2024; Forbes magazine discussed the crisis in the luxury sector ; we also found a fascinating article on the positioning of watch brands and the advantages of context , such as auctions; A completely unexpected article was about the transfer of watchmaking technology in post-war Czechoslovakia , presented as a controversial topic in a museum exhibition, by D. Hamr. M. Karlsson proposes an alternative design concept for a watch , without hands or a dial. N. Moser explores how economic and cultural factors influence the resilience of supply chains in the Swiss watch industry . These are meaningless topics, but they allow us to understand a sample of the watchmaking reality of this year.
Financial feasibility assessment for the establishment of a new specialist programme in watchmaking at the Finnish School of Watchmaking
Author: A testament
The study “Financial feasibility assessment for the establishment of a new specialist programme in watchmaking” looks at the creation of a course at Kelloseppäkoulu to address financial difficulties and attract international students. The programme, taught in English, aims to strengthen the institution’s reputation and diversify its educational offering.
Combining expert interviews and market analysis, the study assesses implementation costs, including specialized equipment, and proposes market-adjusted pricing strategies. Opportunities in the custom watchmaking segment were identified, but also risks such as demand volatility and challenges in attracting international students, mitigated by effective marketing and partnerships with recognized brands.
It is concluded that the programme can ensure financial sustainability and consolidate Kelloseppäkoulu as a reference in watchmaking training, provided that solid strategies and collaborations with the industry are adopted.
Counting the hours: clocks and their creators.
Author: C Orzel
Rebecca Struthers, in collaboration with her husband Craig, runs Struthers Watchmakers, specialising in the repair and restoration of historic timepieces. In the book Hands of Time: A Watchmaker's History of Time , Rebecca combines her personal journey with the history of timekeeping, covering everything from prehistoric artefacts to the most recent atomic clocks.
The personal account is one of the highlights of the book, with engaging descriptions of the daily life of a watchmaker, such as the smell of lathe oil and the surroundings filled with filings and sketches. The work includes illustrations of watchmaking components and culminates with a practical explanation of how to repair a historic watch. The author also describes pieces such as David Bouguet's 17th-century work, a watch adorned with enamel and diamonds, highlighting the artistic and mechanical beauty of these creations.
Although engaging, the historical portion of the book is brief, covering centuries of innovation in just a few pages, with omissions of such notable figures as Jost Bürgi and Salomon Coster. For a more in-depth approach, works such as David Landes' Revolution in Time offer a more detailed look.
More than a comprehensive history of watchmaking, Hands of Time is a passionate tribute to mechanical wonders and the craftsmen who bring them to life. Rebecca Struthers conveys a genuine love for watches and the stories they tell, making the book an excellent read for watch enthusiasts.
Luxury crisis: Swiss luxury watch production down
Author: Helena C. Peralta
Johann Rupert, chairman of the Richemont Group, is defending the reduction in production of Swiss luxury watches in the face of falling global demand. After a period of growth during the pandemic, the industry is facing competition from China, more cautious consumers and rising prices, aggravated by the appreciation of the Swiss franc.
Swiss watch exports, which have reached historic highs in recent years, have now started a downward trend. Rupert calls for more moderate production, avoiding a volume sales strategy. Major private labels such as Rolex, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet follow a similar line.
To mitigate the impacts, the Swiss government is offering support to manufacturers, allowing adjustments in production without permanent job losses. Rupert, who has a strong influence in the sector, reinforces the need for responsibility to preserve the sustainability of the luxury market.
What keeps the market going? The role of third-party audiences and cognitive integration in shaping competitive dynamics in luxury watchmaking
Author: K Claes, F Godart
The article “What Keeps the Market Going? The Role of Third-Party Audiences and Cognitive Embedding in Shaping Competitive Dynamics in Luxury Watchmaking” examines how third-party audiences, such as the media, influence the structure and evolution of the luxury watch market. These audiences facilitate the development of conceptual systems that shape market interactions, stabilizing perceptions and promoting interactions by cognitively embedding competitive dynamics.
The authors investigate the central position of firms within a semantic network of firm names, as conveyed by the media, and find that higher centrality is associated with higher auction prices. This effect is moderated by firm visibility and the tone of media coverage. The model is tested using a unique dataset from the luxury watch industry.
For managers, the results highlight the importance of understanding how and why media associate their brand with others, as this can increase its value in secondary markets and therefore potentially boost value capture in primary markets.
In summary, the study reveals that a company’s performance is determined not only by how it is highlighted or positively presented in the media, but also by the relational context in which it is mentioned. Companies that are frequently mentioned alongside other key industry players are perceived as central to the sector, leading to higher prices for their products at auctions. This effect is reinforced when the company enjoys frequent and positive media coverage.
The transfer of watchmaking technology in post-war Czechoslovakia as a controversial topic of a museum presentation.
Author: D Hamr
The article “The transfer of watchmaking technology in post-war Czechoslovakia as a controversial topic in museum presentation?” explores the challenges faced by the National Technical Museum in Prague when presenting the history of post-war Czechoslovak watchmaking. During this period, the state promoted industrial reconstruction, but often resorted to controversial appropriation of foreign technology, including the violation of intellectual property rights and the replication of Swiss designs.
The study analyses how the museum balanced the presentation of the technical achievements and positive economic impact of watchmaking with the questionable ethical methods used in the transfer of technology. The author argues for a rigorous and inclusive museological approach, which contextualises historical events and allows for critical reflection, avoiding simplifications or moralistic judgements.
The article also highlights the importance of the exhibition's interactive and visual presentation, using original pieces, historical documents and examples of watches made at the time, to strengthen the connection between visitors and the narrative. It concludes that addressing sensitive topics, such as post-war Czechoslovak watchmaking, requires a combination of historical rigour and cultural sensitivity to promote a balanced understanding.
A design proposal for an alternative watch.
Author: M Karlsson - 2024
The document entitled “State of the Day: A Design Proposal for an Alternative Clock” presents an innovative proposal for a time-measuring device that uses unconventional methods to display the different phases of the day. The project focuses on creating a clock that, without using digital displays or electric light, represents five different hues, corresponding to each stage of natural luminosity throughout the day.
The design research includes observations and interactions with non-human entities, such as the Calathea plant and a spiral-veined tree, analyzing their relationship to time and light. These observations inspired the design of the clock, which seeks to reflect the natural rhythms observed in these organisms.
One of the underlying themes of the project is the issue of mental health and stress-related illnesses, which have been rapidly increasing in Sweden in recent years. The author suggests that synchronisation with natural light cycles can have a positive impact on mental well-being, offering an alternative to conventional time-measuring devices that often contribute to the deregulation of circadian rhythms.
The proposed watch uses polarizing films to manipulate natural light, creating a gradual display of changing luminosity throughout the day. Programming is done using Arduino code, allowing the device to adjust its display based on specific GPS coordinates – in this case, Telefonplan in Stockholm. The design incorporates materials such as PLA and natural rubber, emphasizing sustainability.
In terms of shape, the watch combines circular and square elements, inspired by bridge projects in Årsta holmar, seeking to create a connection between design and nature. The choice of colours is influenced by observations such as evening walks and Stockholm’s signature green hue, reinforcing the connection with the natural environment.
Ultimately, “State of Day” is a design proposal that offers an alternative to traditional clocks, promoting greater harmony with natural light cycles and potentially contributing to improved mental health by aligning users with the natural rhythms of the environment.
Resilient supply chain in the Swiss watch industry: the influence of economic and cultural aspects
Author: N Moser - 2024
The paper entitled "Resilient supply chain in the Swiss watch industry: The influence of economic and cultural aspects" written by Nils Moser (2024) explores how economic and cultural factors influence the resilience of supply chains in the Swiss watch industry.
Key points covered:
Supply chain resilience: Defined as the ability of a supply chain to prepare for, respond to, recover from, or withstand disruptions.
Methodology: The research uses qualitative methods, including interviews with Swiss watchmakers, to obtain detailed information.
Cultural factors: Cultural elements that contribute positively to resilience were identified, such as:
effective communication,
Close collaboration,
Flexibility,
Curiosity,
Open mind.
Economic factors: Surprisingly, economic factors such as currency fluctuations have proven to have little impact on the Swiss watch industry.
Collaboration between supply chain actors was highlighted as a crucial factor that promotes flexibility, redundancy and agility, essential elements for a resilient supply chain.
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