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How to make a leather watch strap

Writer: Nuno Margalha
Nuno Margalha
20 hours ago
12 min read



MAKING WATCH STRAPS



Step 1: buying leather and tools in Portugal


Lisbon




Porto


  • Space Hand Made




  • Casa Crocodilo

10:00 to 12:30 and 14:30 to 18:00, Monday to Friday

Rua de Cimo de Vila 63, 4000-170 Porto









Step 2: buying leather and tools outside Portugal


Here are a few recommendations:



Buy Leather Online: https://buyleatheronline.com





Step 3: buying tools


There are several websites selling professional tools, but if you are just starting out we recommend the tools available on sites such as Amazon and AliExpress. Some tools are of very good quality, others will probably not last a lifetime. Choosing tools is a very personal matter; if you have no idea what you need, start with a leatherworking kit.



Aliexpress: recommended individual tools:


  • 20mm strap cutting die
    20mm strap cutting die
  • Long punch
    Long punch
  • Punching chisel
    Punching chisel
  • Dye tank
    Dye tank
  • Leather splitter
    Leather splitter
  • Edge burnisher
    Edge burnisher
  • Edge burning machine
    Edge burning machine
  • burnishing liquid
    burnishing liquid
  • Quick-release spring bar hole punch
    Quick-release spring bar hole punch

Here is a list of recommended tools. Some of them may become unavailable in the meantime. If that happens, simply use the terms in the description to find a similar tool.





Stitching clamp: Spacehandmade ; Amazon.es ; AliExpress










Stitching chisels:



polished French: Amazon.es ; Aliexpress




Punching chisels:



oval hole: Aliexpress




Burnishers





Manual:  SpaceHandmade ; Amazon.es ;





For rotary machines: Amazon.es ;



Dividers:  Amazon.es ; Aliexpress




Thickness gauge:  SpaceHandmade ; Amazon.es ;



Leather splitter / skiver:   Amazon.es ; Aliexpress





Pliers for quick-release spring bar holes: Aliexpress






Step 4: understanding the different stages


  1. Gluing

  2. Cutting

  3. Stitching

  4. Buckle holes

  5. Folding

  6. Finishing


Straps can be made in several ways; in this series of steps we will show you how to make a folded two-piece strap.


Gluing


Gluing is essential for the different layers of leather to sit correctly on top of each other. You should use a glue that does not stiffen once dry. We recommend contact cement. After gluing it is always possible to stitch for reinforcement.


Cutting


There are many cutting knives and many techniques for sharpening them. We recommend a simple scalpel with several blades. Because the scalpel blade is very thin it is extremely effective: with the same force you get a much finer edge. Scalpel blades wear out very quickly, but they are very cheap and can be bought in sets of 100 or more.



20mm 18mm strap cutting die

The shape of the strap can be obtained with cutting dies. Several shops sell dies made specifically for watch straps. It is also possible to order custom dies. Some, like the one in the picture above, include punches for the holes and for the buckle tongue area.


Stitching


Stitching can be done by hand, a method known as saddle stitching in which two needles with two different threads always pass through the same hole. The holes the needles pass through are usually made with a chisel that is not a punch, that is, it removes no material when piercing. To use two needles we need both hands, so the strap must be held in a clamp. The most practical clamps are wooden ones.


Stitching clamp

Machine stitching has the advantage of giving greater consistency and precision between the individual stitches. Triple-feed machines are used for this purpose.





Buckle holes


To make the holes in a strap, punches are used, which come in various shapes. A punch is a tool that removes material as it makes the hole. There are fork-shaped punches that allow precise spacing.


Punches

Folding


There are various strap-making techniques. Folding should be followed by gluing; it is a very important step that requires some precision. It is possible to cut the strap with dedicated cutting dies only after folding and gluing.



Finishing


Finishing is an endless world. We recommend always applying some finish to the edges, unless you deliberately want a piece with no finish whatsoever. Finishing the edges makes the strap waterproof. It can be done with a wooden burnisher, with natural or chemical products such as liquid rubber or wax, or with heat. In this context, burnishing means polishing the edges.


Heat creasing machine

There are very useful machines for marking the line where the stitching should go or for burning the edges of the strap. You can set the temperature, and afterwards you only need to control the pressure and the speed at which you move.


Step 5: making the strap


5.1 - The plan


choosing the thread

Once we have some knowledge and all the materials and tools at our disposal, we recommend drawing up a plan. This plan should always start from the watch that will receive the strap. The stitching is usually in a colour as close as possible to some element of the dial, such as the hands, the day discs or any other component that stands out in colour on the watch. It is also advisable to consider the material of the buckle, which should match the watch case: silver/gold or brushed/polished.


Stitching and hand in green/yellow

Measurements are just as important. Usually the strap narrows by 2 mm from the width between the lugs to the width at the buckle end. However, a difference of 4mm is also very well accepted, perhaps even more so. So if the distance between the lugs is 22mm, the part of the strap that goes into the buckle should be 20mm or 18mm. Once all the aesthetic decisions have been made, check that all the necessary tools and materials are available.


5.2 - Hides and skins


You should choose the ideal leather: stiffer leathers produce straps with a stronger structure, while softer ones may sometimes not work. If you choose cowhide, look for the back area, which is the stiffest, the belly being the softest.


5.2.1 - Leather


  • Cowhide: Cowhide is one of the most traditional and common leathers for watch straps. It is very tough and durable, well suited to everyday wear. Cowhide can be processed in various ways to create different textures and finishes, such as smooth leather, suede or aged leather.

- Smooth leather: Elegant, ideal for formal occasions, needs care to avoid scratches.

- Embossed leather: With patterns such as crocodile, it offers an exotic touch without using real exotic skins.

- Saffiano: characterised by a fine cross-hatch pattern that increases its resistance to scratches and water. This finish not only gives durability but also an elegant look.

- Suede: Soft and casual, but prone to stains.

- Naturally textured leather: Celebrates the uniqueness of each hide, durable but needs conditioning.

- Rally leather: Inspired by motorsport, breathable and sporty.

- Waterproof leather: Practical for everyday wear, water-resistant.

- Silicone-lined leather: Combines the durability of silicone with the elegance of leather.

- Aniline leather: Shows the natural texture of the hide, luxurious but prone to scratches.

- Aged leather: Vintage style, develops a unique patina.

- Perforated leather: Stylish and breathable, ideal for hot climates.


  • Cordovan (horse) leather: Although it is not so common, cordovan leather, made from horsehide, is highly prized for watch straps for its incredible durability and glossy finish that ages very well.


5.2.2 - Exotic leathers


  • Ostrich: Known for its large, distinctive quill marks, it is valued for its soft texture and durability.

  • Crocodile: Highly prized for its unique and luxurious scale texture.

  • Alligator: Similar to crocodile, with a smaller scale pattern, and highly valued in luxury goods.

  • Stingray: Notable for its calcified dots that resemble pearls.

  • Eel: Thin and glossy, with a soft, elastic texture.

  • Snake : Popular for its distinctive texture and variety of colourful patterns.

  • Pigskin: Tough, with a grainy texture, often used in clothing and durable accessories.


5.2.3 - Types of cut


  • Whole Skin: Refers to the entire skin, usually smaller, and may come from animals such as sheep or goats.

  • Half Calfskin: Half of a calfskin, offering a smaller size and lower quality than an adult ox hide, but still valuable for luxury goods.

  • Whole Cowhide: The complete hide of a cow, offering a large area and durability, ideal for furniture and larger garments.

  • Whole Bull Hide: Similar to cowhide, but from bulls, generally thicker and tougher.

  • Belly: Part of the animal's belly, more flexible and with a less uniform grain, often used for moulded leather goods. Not suitable for watch straps.


5.3 - Gluing


The first step should be gluing. We recommend using contact cement. For this tutorial we are going to make a folded strap, as it is the simplest and most effective for beginners.


  • So the first step should be folding the leather. Choose a piece of stiff leather, as mentioned, with dimensions slightly larger than at least twice each of the two parts of the strap. To crease the fold you can use a hammer or a lever press.


  • After folding, the next step is to apply contact cement evenly; there is no need to let it dry before joining both parts.


  • The drying time should be at least 5 minutes. If this time is not respected, the glued areas may shift out of alignment during gluing.



5.4 - Cutting


Cutting is always the start of the construction process. If you choose, for example, a 22mm x 18mm strap, it is important to make sure you have cutting dies of that size; otherwise there are always alternatives, such as printing a construction template with the correct measurements on paper and cutting the leather over it with a scalpel.


  • The results are by far better with cutting dies, which can be ordered from AliExpress, Amazon or specialist sites, in custom sizes. Cutting dies are laser-sharpened steel frames fitted into wooden rectangles that are also laser cut and engraved. It is usually possible to choose between complete dies like those in the photo, or dies without hole punches. We recommend the ones that include hole punches, since these can always be removed or refitted later. The holes needed are the ones that receive the buckle tongue at either end. As the strap consists of two parts, you need a die for each part; sometimes there are also dies for the keeper, as shown in the photo.


Set of 20x18 cutting dies

  • With the leather folded and glued, measure the length of both parts carefully and precisely. An existing strap can be used for this.

  • The folded leather should then be placed in the right position on the die to obtain the required length, with the folded edge parallel to the top of the die.

  • With the die underneath, blade facing up, and the leather over the blade area, place a cutting mat on top, a rubber one that can be bought in any stationery shop. The die-strap-mat stack is then placed in a press, which presses it slowly until the cut is completely through.

leather cutting press

  • If you do not have a press you can use a technique that is less kind to the dies: a board and a hammer. Place the board over the die-leather-mat stack and hammer it until the cut is successful.

  • If you do not have a cutting die, you can print a 1:1 version of the strap, place it on top and cut with a scalpel, or trace the outline of the desired strap on the leather by following the outline of a finished strap. Alternatively, you can buy acrylic templates in the size you want.

  • The photo below shows an example of a folded, glued and cut strap, in this case still without holes.


two glued and cut straps

  • Cutting can also be done with laser machines, which has the advantages of doing away with cutting dies and achieving unusual results more quickly. However, the leather becomes too hard and burnt along the cut edges, which has to be dealt with later.



5.5 - Holes



5.5.1 - Stitching holes


There is a widespread idea that hand-stitching leather requires strong needles and a lot of force to pierce it. In fact it is quite a light and delicate job. The holes the needle passes through should not be made by the needle itself but by a tool we call a chisel (in Portuguese, a “fork”, because of its resemblance to one).


Stitching chisel and hand-stitched strap

These holes should be made over a previously marked line. You can choose chisels with more or fewer prongs, as well as the spacing between prongs, which will later give longer or shorter stitches. Chisels with fewer prongs are useful for the curved tip of the strap.


Wallet hand-stitched with a French chisel

The best-known prong types are those found on French chisels, flat and angled, usually polished, and the more common diamond-shaped ones. These chisels are not punches, that is, they do not remove material, they only push it aside.

French chisel below and diamond-prong chisel above

5.5.2 - Holes for buckle tongues


By contrast, the holes made for the buckle tongue always involve removing material. They are also made with chisel-like tools whose prongs come in various diameters, whether round or oval. Round prongs are for ordinary buckles, oval ones for flat tongues. These tools are simply called punches.



Oval punches
Oval punches with prongs of various diameters

It is sometimes possible to replace the prongs of a punch with others of a different diameter. The holes made with these tools should be marked beforehand, like the previous ones. If more holes are needed than the punch has prongs, punch again with one or two prongs fitted into holes already made. This guarantees the spacing between holes.




Round holes on the left and flat holes on the right


For fabric straps it is advisable to use eyelets, which can be bought by size and are often sold in sets together with the setting pliers. Without eyelets the fabric will eventually fray around the hole.



Fabric strap with eyelets



5.5.3 - Holes for quick-release spring bars


Quick-release spring bars are highly recommended. Their main advantage is that they avoid scratching the watch lugs when changing straps. The holes for these spring bars are made with dedicated pliers. These pliers have a pin that goes into the strap, with a rectangular hole. When you squeeze the pliers a punch comes down onto the strap and pierces it, removing material. It is very important to tighten the pliers' single screw, which prevents the pin from breaking. There are unbranded pliers and pliers from well-known brands, with the expected difference in price and quality.


tool for making holes for quick-release spring bars

5.5.4 - Holes for the buckle tongue slot.


The slot through which the tongue passes, at the buckle end, can be made with a scalpel and a good deal of precision, or with cutting dies. To use the die, place the strap on a cutting mat with the die on top and press it with a press or with a precise hammer blow.


Set of cutting dies

5.6 - Stitching


5.6.1 - Saddle Stitching




  1. Preparation: The leather is cut to the desired shape and the holes are marked evenly along the edges where the stitching will go, as mentioned above.

  2. Tools: A needle is used at each end of a single thread, waxed or not, usually linen or polyester.

  3. Stitching:

  • Start at the first hole, passing one needle through each side of the same hole, crossing the needles in the hole and pulling the thread tight to close each stitch as you go.

  • This process is repeated, alternating the needles and making sure the thread crosses in each hole, which increases the durability of the stitching.

  1. Finishing off: On reaching the end, the stitching is reinforced by making a few extra stitches or by going back a few stitches before cutting the thread.

  2. Polishing: The stitches can be lightly hammered to flatten and further secure the stitching, and the edges of the leather can be polished for a clean, professional finish.


5.6.2 - Bar tacks


Bar tacks are always applied on the section of the strap next to the watch lugs. It is also advisable to apply them before and after the fixed keeper, as in the image above.




In this example a V-shaped stitch is also applied at the end furthest from the watch. All the tacks should follow the same pattern regarding the number of turns; in the image above two turns were always made. The tacks consist of a given number of turns around the same point; at the end one or two simple knots are tied and the ends are burnt to make sure the knot holds.



5.7 - Finishing


Tool for polishing the strap edges
Tool for polishing the strap edges

Finishing on leather watch straps is essential not only for the look of the product but also for its durability and comfort. Various methods are used to ensure that straps are functional and elegant. Here are some of the main types of finish applied to watch straps:


  1. Edge polishing: The edges of the strap are sanded to smooth out any irregularities and then polished to create a clean, refined look. This finish is crucial to prevent the leather edges from fraying or causing discomfort when worn.

  2. Burnishing (heat sealing): A technique in which the leather edges are rubbed with specific tools or substances (such as beeswax) to seal the pores of the leather and give it a soft sheen. This not only improves the look of the strap but also protects it against elements such as water and dirt.

  3. Dyeing: Straps can be dyed in a variety of colours to match different watch styles and personal preferences. Dyeing is done carefully to ensure that the colour is even and long-lasting.

  4. Decorative stitching: Many straps have visible stitching that not only reinforces the structure but also adds a decorative element. The threads can be in contrasting colours to stand out against or complement the leather.

  5. Applying conditioners and waterproofing agents: Leather conditioners help keep the strap soft and supple, while waterproofing agents increase water resistance.

  6. Engraving and embossing: Engraving or embossing techniques can be used to add logos, designs or exclusive textures to straps, giving them a unique identity.


Liquid for waterproofing straps
Liquid for waterproofing straps

Each of these finishes is applied with specific techniques that require skill and attention to detail, ensuring that straps not only look excellent but also withstand prolonged daily wear. When choosing a watch strap, it is important to consider not only the style but also how the finishes will contribute to the longevity and comfort of the accessory.




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